The 2009 Iditarod is getting curiouser and curiouser, and there suddenly is no certainty about who will win, or who’s vying for second or third. High wind and cold temperatures hammered front-running dog teams today, causing most of the top 10 to shut down much longer than they normally would. And in stranger places.
Four teams that had been in the hunt for second place — Jeff King, Mitch Seavey, Aaron Burmeister and, up from behind, Hans Gatt — holed up at a shelter cabin right on the edge of Norton Sound. It’s right next to a large rocky outcropping, which is about the only landmark for miles and miles. The cabin is a small plywood shack and if my memory is correct, it is located precisely where Libby Riddles huddled in her sled during a nasty white-out in 1985 on her way to becoming the first woman to win the Iditarod.
Up the trail, Lance Mackey, the race leader, took a painfully long 7 hours to get to Koyuk, and told checkers there it was a demoralizing slog for his dogs. They had to plow through drifts and, after that tired them, dodge around others. Sebastian Schnuelle took almost an hour longer than Mackey, and reportedly said it was the hardest run of his career. John Baker was next, and was still on the trail as I wrote, but was taking even longer to get across the bay. By comparison, it can take under six hours to get to Koyuk in a normal year. Sometimes six and a half.
Meanwhile, reports have circulated about serious frost-bite on Hugh Neff’s face. I don’t know if they are true, but the tracker showed Neff’s team going out from Shaktoolik, then heading backwards to the checkpoint. That’s not good news.
These guys are heading into winds gusting to 35 mph in temperatures in the 10 to 20 below zero range. The weather is such an obvious factor that the only people actually moving on the trail north of Unalakleet as I write are Martin Buser, Ed Iten and Mackey. The others are pulled over, waiting. Or moving backwards. It appears Jeff King and Hans Gatt were headed back toward Shaktoolik Monday night.
Yes, this race is still nearly in the bag for Mackey, but it suddenly is a lot closer, more dicey, less certain. Mackey waited a whopping 9 hours before departing Koyuk, a full three hours after Schnuelle arrived. If Schnuelle has the team to risk it, he could pull his hook and be off after a five hour rest, a scant two hours behind Mackey. (Update: Obviously he did not cut rest. That tells you just how tough that run over Norton Bay truly was.) Meanwhile, John Baker is just trucking along. He’s got more time to make up, but if Mackey runs into issues on the difficult run over to Elim, he’s close enough.
The run to Elim is generally easy, but can be nasty in just these conditions. Mushers hang along the shore for a while, then cross over a short section of hills before dropping down to the coast again where they go from east to west across the mouth of a wide bay to reach Elim. Wind can howl out of the north, pushing them sldeways towards the sound. There can be massive drifts of crusty snow, or the slow wearing down of the dogs’ stamina by trying to slice into the wind when they’d rather just run with it to their backs. Mushers may have to keep verbally nudging their dogs gee (to the right) to follow trail markers.
John Baker has always wanted a good, old-fashioned storm on the coast, something his dogs are used to. This could be his storm.
Schnuelle told me before the race that if he had a dozen strong dogs leaving Kaltag, he would probably run long and skip a checkpoint. He lived up to his pledge. Schnuelle said that last year he had his mind made up to blow through Shaktoolik, but when he arrived, he saw a few top name mushers standing there watching him, and his resolve vanished. He found himself telling checkers he wanted to park his team. This year, he said, he wasn’t going to make the same mistake if the team looked good. Video on the Insider shows his team leaving Shaktoolik looking remarkably crisp.
Further back in the standings, it is obvious that there is a convoy of mushers still on the trail from Eagle Island to Kaltag, facing the same brutal headwinds. There is little shelter from the wind on the river. Camping out there is not easy in this weather, but I think a few mushers opted for it.
And the very back of the pack, the last three teams of Lou Packer, Blake Matray and Kim Darst still are not reported to have arrived at Shageluk at 10 p.m Alaska time, even though they left Iditarod at least 20 hours earlier. There are some high, bald hills out there, which can be ugly in high winds. Hopefully, those three are OK. (Update: check the Iditarod’s press release on these three. Some bad news regarding two of Packer’s dogs.)




8 comments
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March 16, 2009 at 11:52 pm
matt hammersley
i hope lou’s team are ok, got the advisory, sad news for him glad he got rescued. it looks like this race could turn into a fight we havnt seen for many years, thanks for your great insights again jon, even though its blowing hard and codl i bet you would still rather be out on the trail looking at them teams hey?
best wishes matt
March 17, 2009 at 4:38 am
Joan
Thanks for the details and insight. There’s no one better than you at reporting this race to those of us in the lower 48. The 3 mushers and teams must be disappointed for now, but these were harsh conditions this year. They’re all winners in my book — I don’t think I’d last more than a couple of hours (at that!). It’s sad about Lou’s dogs, but it seems like the rest of the dogs and the 3 mushers are fine – although scratched from this one. Thanks again for the reporting. Note: First I check the GPS, then I check your site after that — then it’s back to the stories and info on other sites. Next year will you be back on the trail of the Iditarod? (You’re doing a great job from home!)
March 17, 2009 at 8:44 am
carol
Thank you so much for the great writing. The coverage on the official site this year is seriously lacking. You are as much a part of this event as the teams. We’re all anxiously awaiting your next update.
March 17, 2009 at 9:23 am
teresa
just to add to everyone’s comments— Thanks so much for blogging from home. I have been seriously disappointed in the “official” coverage available to those who do not pay for the “iditarod insider”. The stories are about a paragraph long and tell the reader nothing about what might be happening on the trail or what the trail looks like or what the mushers might be thinking. Your writing gets the reader right there, in the action, from the comfort of the armchair! Hopefully you will be back on the trail next year!!!
March 17, 2009 at 10:35 am
Erik Moratzka
Jon,
Superb update, as always. Congrats on the great YQ run! The coverage of this year’s race, except for the multitude of good blogs and the BSSD resources, is awful. You had the unique skill of providing up-to-date info and also filling in the backstory. Keep the udpates coming, you’re the best.
E
March 17, 2009 at 11:15 am
Katy Oyler
Thanks for the continuously great coverage! Would you elaborate on what makes crossing the Norton Sound so difficult and why the mushers in Shaktoolik are staying there for a while? Is it dangerous or demoralizing or both?
March 17, 2009 at 3:02 pm
Denise Arthurs
Thanks so much for your coverage. I miss you on the Iditarod pages. There is little to no information like there was last year (or the year before ?) when you were reporting.
April 23, 2009 at 7:49 pm
Paul G
Wow, I’ve heard about this race for a while now… I’m a big hiker – mainly in the White Mountains of NH…. I’ve done some serious backpacking, like 15 mile days over the Presidentials, but this could be the most intense trek ever! thanks for the info!